Long Time No See!

A lot has happened since I last wrote three months ago. Will take it in bullets. It's Thursday after all!

• In May our dear friends Maria and Daniel visited for a short weekend to celebrate Daniel's 40th birthday. Of course that required proper celebration at a two-star restaurant! Thanks P & O for babysitting!

Cheese!

• Later in May we flew back to Sweden for a long weekend to celebrate my mother's 60th birthday (and my parents also celebrated their 40th wedding anniversary). The weather was perfect, sunny and 28 degrees! My mother was very happy for her gift from me - a visit to Chelsea Flower Show next year (that reminds me, should probably book the tickets already now), something she has wanted to do for a very long time! My mum is also, despite her age (ha ha, though these days 60 is still very young) finally getting a driving license, so she's busy studying theory and taking lessons. Good for her!

• A few days after Sweden we packed up the car (you can never travel light with kids!) and drove to Münich together with our friendbours P & O to visit O's brother and wife over the Ascension Day weekend. On the way there we stopped in Frankfurt (partly because we left after work on the Wednesday and partly to split the long drive - 7+ hours - for the sake of the kids) to spend the night, but on Sunday we drove home in one go. We were a bit unlucky with the weather but otherwise I really liked Münich and we had a very nice time. Unfortunately Isolde caught a fever so on Saturday she and I spent the afternoon in the hotel as well as in a local playground while the rest of the group continued their sightseeing (this meant I sadly missed the visit to the Englischer Garten, but we'll probably be back some day).

I didn't take that many pictures with the iPhone but this is what Münich is all about, right :)

• The following weekend Peter went to Sweden again, this time for the wedding of a friend of his. We didn't feel like travelling with the children again for the third time in just two weeks, so he went by himself. Nice for him to get some child-free time as well. While he was in Sweden, the kids and I hung out with the neighbours - of course - and I packed a bit. Friday was 6 June and the Swedish National Day so P, T and I took the kids to the Swedish church for the celebrations in the evening. Sunday it was Princess Leonore's christening so we used the occasion to have a brunch with the friendbours, or at least the females of the families and the children, while the christening was on TV in the background. I also had the Monday off for Pentecoast and since Peter came back Sunday evening, we had a family day as well. 

Emily, Harald and Isolde at the National Day celebrations!

• The following week and weekend was the big move! I took half of Thursday and all of Friday off - work gives a leave entitlement for up to two days for removal purposes. Thursday afternoon we set out to Ikea with quite a long list - wardrobes for our bedroom, for Harald (Isolde had one already coming with the lorry from Sweden) and for the entrance/downstairs hallway, crib for Harald, bookcase for the kids' room, a double bed for the large/main guest room and other bits and pieces. The movers were supposed to arrive Friday with our furniture from the Stockholm flat, but they called and said that they were arriving early and asked whether it was possible to unload already Thursday afternoon. So they arrived around the time we returned from Ikea with lots of flatpacks (we used this excellent Ikea taxi service that only costs 30 euros irrespective of how much stuff you have and they help load and unload the van and there's no waiting time). We had reserved to block the street from other parked cars for the Friday to allow room for the lorry, but since it was Thursday still they had to just park in the road. Luckily it is not a very trafficated road so it worked out fine. We had booked a window lift - very exciting for the kids - for Friday afternoon to get some of the bulky furniture upstairs, as the staircase is a bit narrow, so we still made use of our cleared street part. On Sunday the "friendbours took the kids for most of the day so we could get some unpacking done and assemble Ikea furniture. After that it started to look like a home, or at least the start of one, and from that Sunday night (15 June) we slept in the house.  

Some order but mostly disorder!

Exciting!

• Isolde made her first school trip ever in mid-June. They went by bus to a horse farm near Leuven where they were able to ride and feed the horses, look at sheep and bake some bread (very tasty actually!). She had a really great time and asked several days in a row if she was going on an excursion that day again.  

Isolde's farm-baked bread
 

Isolde reenacts her school photo :)

• We had guests at the new house from the start. Even before we moved in Peter had assembled the grill and the trampoline so we were ready to receive guests, big and small! The first dinner was with P & O and kids and the first BBQ with our other neighbours T & M and another friend A with her boyfriend J, without the kids as we had organised a babysitter for the evening. We had meant to watch Belgium's first match in the World Cup on big screen in the local square but there were so many people that we decided to go home instead.

First BBQ at the house!

• The following weekend was Midsummer's and we had the celebrations at the house on the Saturday (Friday being a regular work day here) with 9 adults and 8 kids even though our house was in a bit of a state still. The weather was perfect and we were mostly outside anyway. We even had a proper Maypole and wreaths for the kids, thanks to T. There was so much food over so the next day almost the same crowd came over (minus 2 adults and 2 kids) for the leftovers and stayed all day. We didn't get much unpacking and organising done that weekend, but there would be time for that. Life is too short not to enjoy it fully with good friends!

• Peter managed to trip and fall on top of our glass table in the living room in the middle of our Midsummer fun, which broke in a thousand pieces, but luckily he wasn't injured except for some minor cuts (very fortunate, it could be much worse). It was funny in a tragicomical way because P, when seeing the table for the first time the day before, had asked "is that really safe with kids?" and Peter had responded "I've had this table for almost 18 years, several grown men have fallen on it, it's very sturdy..", etc. I guess the years and all those "bumps" had taken its toll and perhaps travelling 1,500 km in a lorry from Stockholm to Brussels was the final straw. Now we're on the lookout for a new table and possibly we're going for an almost exact table from Habitat (if we dare...).  

The table that no longer is...

• After that it was school's out for Isolde and we drove to Sweden on Friday 27 June. The trip went surprisingly well, much better than the trip to Münich a few weeks earlier. We started around 9 in the morning and took our time to Travemünde where we were going to take the ferry to Sweden. Actual driving time was just over 6 hours but we took two breaks and arrived in Lübeck around 6pm for dinner and a walk around. The ferry wasn't leaving until 22:00 and check-in was at 20:00 so we had plenty of time to kill. Once on the ferry the kids were able to play in the playroom for a while before bedtime. We had chosen one of the largest cabins so that we had proper beds (well, sort of, but at least avoid top bunks) and more space.

Great time in the ball pool!

• The ferry arrived to Trelleborg already at 07:30 so we had to set the alarm pretty early. We had some breakfast on the boat but saved some room for a second breakfast at an old school friend who lives in the Skåne countryside. So our first stop on the Swedish side was a visit to C. in little village Stora Beddinge for some just-out-of-the-oven scones and fresh coffee. Last time I saw C. was three years ago and before then...15 years?? It was very nice meeting her sambo and children and I'm very glad that we stopped by. Around 10am we headed north and only stopped once for lunch after almost 3½ hours as the kids slept for most of the first leg. After the lunch stop we only had another two hours or so before we reached my parents' house in Södertälje in time for dinner.  
• That weekend I had the chance to see Saltistjejen from New York who was in Sweden for the summer and meet the latest addition to the family. So glad we were able to meet up, even if only for a short fika!

• Sunday evening I flew back to Brussels to work while Peter drove to his parents' summer house. I had to work for another two weeks, however, I flew to Sweden for the weekend, and Peter and the kids joined me in Stockholm where we stayed in his parents' apartment. That weekend I also had the opportunity to join a farewell get-together for a colleague from my old (or Swedish) job (and did karaoke for the first time in ages and "better than good" as the saying goes...). While I was on my own in Brussels for two weeks (or ten working days) I did a little unpacking and fixing but also took the opportunity to go out with colleagues and friends, for example girls' night to celebrate P's birthday. The first few days alone felt rather lonely but then got used to it and the second week I started longing for the kids (and Peter too of course) again, even though I had seen them at the weekend :) And great weather had come to Sweden while I was shivering in 14'C Brussels and had to turn the heating on as I was all alone in a big house!
• Then on 11 July I flew to Sweden again, but this time for four weeks holiday! But more about that in a separate post!

Friday Gallery: Advent

Annika has taken over the hosting of the Friday Gallery for the month of December (and she's permanent hostess for the FG widget) and for our first task she's given us Advent. Easy one. This is what our home looks like since last weekend/first of advent:

Isolde helped out with the advent candles:

On First of Advent Isolde and I went to the Swedish church here in Brussels to get into the Christmas spirit: 

And of course I have to bring some "adventsmys" to the office as well:

And for those who have read the below post I'm happy to report that the ordeal was finally over just after 3pm today when I set foot at home again, 17 hours after planned arrival. The 10:35 flight this morning was of course delayed twice and it wasn't until 12:45 that we left Copenhagen. Next time I will definitely bring underwear and deodorant and a few other key items on day trips just in case. And by my next work trip I hope to have stopped breast-feeding, as towards the end of the delay my breasts were rather full and painful, after not having been "used" for over 36 hours. I don't nurse as much anymore but at least once every morning and twice at night, so still regular enough to keep milk production up. 

All is well that ends well, or however it goes. Peter made it to Stockholm as planned this morning and the kids had a great time with my mum. Isolde missed Saint Nicholas at school today but luckily she's too young to care, though apparently has little friends had missed her and even cried for her sake because she missed Santa (bless'em). 

Now I'm off to bed for some very needed sleep! 

Thursday Again

This post is dedicated to Mette! ;)

• This week has been busy work-wise (not too many extra hours but hectic while at work) and I can't wait for the weekend to come! I'm looking forward to getting some sleep (as much as you can get with two small children - luckily they don't wake up as early as they used to) and hanging out with my family.
• This weekend I'm also looking forward to having our lovely neighbours over for dinner. Peter has seen them (or at least three out of four family members) several times but I haven't seen them for over a month (since E was one week old and now she's six weeks!). 
• Today and tomorrow I'm attending a conference on youth unemployment. I discovered that the venue also has a spa - must check if it would be a nice place to spend a day or even spend the night. It's located outside of town in the - currently very autumn beautiful and colourful - forest. 
• Harald turned 8 months last weekend (12th) and it reminded me that I haven't posted his 6-7 month-old report yet. On the to do-list for this weekend!
• Last weekend we had a lovely visit by my parents. The weather wasn't cooperating for most of the visit except for on Saturday when we were even able to have lunch outside. But more about visits in a separate post!
• We have finally booked tickets to go and visit friends in the UK at the turn of the month! We'll be driving and on the way there we'll cross the English Channel by ferry and on the way home we'll take Le Shuttle, i.e. the train for cars. 
• Isolde will have a week off pre-school at the end of the month (just before our England trip) and when she returns she'll start attending full days (08:30-15:30), which means she will also eat and nap there. We just filled out her food order for November. The food sounds really good - it's always three-course lunches - and sounds much better than Swedish preschool and especially school lunches, but I heard at the parent teacher conference that there's a new provider and people aren't that happy, so we'll see. But you have to agree with me that this sounds delicious! 

5 November: turnip soup - salmon, macaroni and spinach cream - gruyère - biscuit
6 November: split pea soup - diced chicken, haricots provencale, bulgur - fruit yoghurt
7 November: parsnip soup - beef stew, garden vegetables, parsley puré - dried fruits

The Holiday that Never Was

We were supposed to go to Nice, France, but ended up at Ica Maxi supermarket...

Two weeks ago we were finally on our way to Nice again, for the first time since July last year, and for the very first time our friends Maria and Daniel were joining us for part of the trip.  But French air traffic control wanted differently, as they went on strike the same day we were supposed to fly. 

If I believed in signs I'd think the universe was telling us something already ahead of the trip as both Daniel and I fell ill the weekend before.  Neither of us were in great shape on departure day but that didn't stop us from going.  What did stop us was a strike as well as, it seems, very bad management by SAS.

French air traffic was minimal on Tuesday and our flight was one of the ones which had not been cancelled, albeit delayed.  Around the time of our original departure, 10:20, we were told that our flight did have a slot time at 12:30, but that unfortunately it looked like SAS didn't have a crew anymore for the flight.  The original crew had been working too many hours already and the new crew members might not make it to the airport in time.  And that's what eventually happen. 

What I don't understand though is how SAS (and maybe not just SAS but airlines in general) can have so small margins in terms of the crew's working hours.  I understand that they probably started their day in Östersund at 5am and going to Nice and back to Stockholm would make their work day very long.  But it's not like the flight was hours and hours delayed.  Two hours must be pretty normal if something happens, for example technical problems.  And I don't understand how they don't have a new crew on stand-by that can make it to the airport in a few hours.  Daniel, who also happens to be a pilot, said it's probably down to one member who didn't make it in time and because they have to be a full team (of course) the plane can't take off.

 

Big kids also have fun at the play area at Arlanda!

There was no point queuing at the transfer centre at the airport so we checked out our luggage again and headed back home to try to rebook our tickets over the phone instead.  Once we got through we were told we were rebooked on another flight the next day, via Copenhagen this time.  So far so good.  We knew the risk was high that flight would be cancelled too, especially since the strike was planned to last three days, but we didn't want to give up just yet. Even though the flight was an early morning one. 

So the next morning we get up in the wee hours (and carry heavy luggage and two kids out of the building again, in and out of the car, on and off the airport parking bus...) and we make it to Copenhagen without problems.  Of course this wasn't the leg with issues but it felt promising still.  Why fly all of us to Copenhagen if they didn't think we could make it?

Yes, we're off to Copenhagen and then we'll see...

But of course it was too good to be true.  We're told that we'll get new information at a certain hour and that time gets pushed a few times.  They give us food vouchers, which we spend to the last penny.  Eventually they give us the bad news that the flight is cancelled.  After a long wait at the transfer centre we're booked on a flight back to Stockholm (some passengers opt for a flight to Milan - which hopefully weren't affected by a similar strike in Italy that day - and bus transfer to Nice but we don't want to do that with two small children, especially since we would have arrived in the middle of the night).



Happy travellers despite everything! 

Luckily Isolde is a bit too young to understand the concept of a missed trip and and for her exploring airports and flying back and forth Stockholm-Copenhagen is enough of an adventure.  She must have wondering why we were hauling around so much luggage for such a short trip though haha.  She was a star throughout except take-off and landing, as she doesn't like to be strapped in, but that's just something she has to get used to.  She flew quite a lot in her first year but before this trip she hadn't flown since last summer.  Harald is just the most easy-going baby so he was his usual smiley self both days - although the day after he slept all day almost.

We had brought our Babyzen Yoyo pushchair, which folds into a very small carry-on size, for Isolde, and discovered that Harald could ride in it too.

At Kastrup they had pushchairs suited for both children and babies, which is excellent when Isolde and Harald were asleep at the same time.  

In-flight entertainment

Once we had landed in Stockholm our luggage had not travelled with us of course, but luckily we didn't have to wait long and it was delivered the next morning.  But the bad luck didn't end there. When we had picked up the car from airport parking and just turned onto the motorway Maria and Daniel, who were ahead of us, called to tell us that there has been an accident and that they were now stuck in stopped traffic, and recommended us to get off the motorway.  We got their call just in time and turned off and into a McDonald's.  I spot a playground and suggest we hang out there until the road is clear. After a while both kids require a change of nappies and we discover that we've run out (Harald went through 13 nappies that day!) so we decide that then we can just as well go to Ica Maxi and pick up supplies for the next few days, including nappies. 

And that's how we ended up at the supermarket instead of France...

We could have made a new attempt on the Friday that week (our original departure was Tuesday) but SAS for some reason didn't allow us to rebook the return flight (strikes are considered force majeure) and we felt a five-day trip would be too short compared to the eight days we originally planned for.  And we were tired of airports and also worried that the strike might still cause delays and even cancellations.  So we opted for a full refund.  We also tried to get some compensation for pain and suffering but our request was turned down.  At least we got compensation for extra expenses such as parking and cancellation fee for the rental car in Nice.  We'll try with our insurance company but it sounded unlikely when we talked to them on the phone.

We looked at buying new tickets for a later time in June or July but the tickets were really expensive compared to what we originally paid for ours in January.  Instead we'll spend it on visiting Maria and Daniel in Bodø in the north of Norway where Daniel works.  It's supposed to be very beautiful there and I'm also looking forward to experiencing midnight sun! 

London in December

I haven't yet told you about my latest visit to London earlier this month.  Originally I meant to take Isolde with me and visit a friend, K, in Abingdon outside Oxford (K has just had her second baby and her older daughter is just one year older than Isolde).  I then thought it would be nice with an extra pair of hands and my mum is always keen to go to England, and now she hadn't been for a while.  We started looking at flights and hotels in Oxford but the more we talked, we felt it was probably best not to bring Isolde, as we wanted to do some Christmas shopping as well - not Isolde's favourite pastime - and besides, with another baby on the way, when would I have another chance to travel sans children?  Probably not for a while.  And with Peter having made a trip in November it felt "fair" that I got my share of travel too. 

So it quickly developed into a London-focussed trip but with a day-trip out of town to see K.  We left mid-day on a Saturday and flew back on a Wednesday, which gave us a full three days plus some.  Last time I was in London, or England in general for that matter, was in February, and then I hardly had any spare time as I was doing a course, except for the weekend which we spent with K and her family (Isolde and Peter came along for that whole week). 

I hardly took any photos at all on this trip but here are the handful I took.

Christmas lights in Oxford, where we fought our way through the crowds our first evening in town and then didn't return for the remainder of the trip.

At least one visit to Starbucks was a must every day, mainly to take advantage of free wi-fi.

We stayed at the Hilton Metropol at Edgware Road, which I can recommend for the location and standard (at least at the rate we managed to get through hotels.se), but not necessarily for the view from our window, but then again we didn't spend that much time in the room so...

No visit to England without Afternoon or Cream Tea!  I think we managed to gobble three Cream Teas in as many days.  This one is at Muriel's Kitchen just outside South Kensington tube station (and we had one at Liberty too).

My mum with the latest addition to the M-O family, Seren.

A very delicious (non-alcoholic) drink in the hotel restaurant our last evening in town.

And of course no visit to England without fish & chips!  I like how it was presented - also at the hotel - on newspaper and with the lemon in a net.  And ketchup, mushy peas and tartar sauce on the side.

We were actually both very unlucky and lucky on this trip.  Let me tell you!

Story 1

• We're about to board the plane at Arlanda, Stockholm, and as the attendant checks my boarding pass and passport, she says "by the way, how far along [in the pregnancy] are you?".  "Week 27", I answer, "why do you ask?"  "I think you need a doctor's certificate from a certain week, but I think it's week 28", she says and asks me to step to the side so she can check in the computer.   She confirms that it's week 28 and writes a note in the system for the return flight so they will know then that I'm clear to fly.  I hadn't even thought about checking or getting a certificate as I thought it was from week 32 at the earliest that a certificate would be needed and I flew around the same time when I was pregnant with Isolde and no one bothered to ask then.  I know that you're not allowed to fly at all during the last four weeks, but I never thought it would be a problem with more than three months to go.  But turns out I might not have been allowed on the plane had it been one or two weeks later (I don't know if they mean as soon as you enter the 28th week, i.e. 27+1, or it applies from when you have completed 28 weeks, i.e. 28+0) so lucky start to the trip!

Story 2

• On the Monday of our trip we went to visit K and kids.  We had agreed that we would take the train from Paddington to Radley, the nearest train station to them, and she'd pick us up with the car.  The train was running 15 minutes late so I texted K to let her know and sent a last text two stops before Radley.  So far so good.  We get off at Radley and wait in the parking lot.  After about 15 minutes we start wondering where she is (before that I hadn't worried about her being late, just thinking that it's difficult to be on time with two little kids) and I check my mobile to see if she's texted to say that she's late.  There's no text but no reception either!  My mum checks her phone which has the same provider (Telenor) and she doesn't have any reception either.  After another 10 minute wait or so we go to the pub next to the station to borrow their phone but I just get through to K's voice mail (the girl at the pub says the area has very bad reception). 
• I remember that K has told me that there's a bus into Abingdon so we go to the bus stop and hop on the next bus coming.  I figure she has probably sent me a text saying we should meet her in Abingdon instead.  The bus passes by familiar neighbourhoods - I have visited them once before, in February, but at that time they picked us up at another train station and I didn't pay too close attention - but I decide it's safer to go all the way to Abingdon (10-15 min journey).  We get off the bus in the town square and proceed to Costa café where I ask to borrow the phone and leave another message for K, as our phones still don't have any reception - all very strange!  We order hot chocolates and a muffin and stay there for 45 minutes to an hour in the hope K hears my message.  When she doesn't show up I'm starting to think something must have happened.  And why are our phones still not working?! 
• I borrow the phone at Costa a last time and leave a new message, telling K we'll go to the library - I've spotted a sign - to try to use the Internet to find her address (which of course I haven't written down on a note, as I was so sure we'd be picked up and also that I would be able to use my mobile) and a map so we can walk to her house.  At the library they luckily have wi-fi so I can easily surf on my iPhone and eventually I find K's address in my Facebook messages.  We copy a local map (2 pages for 20 pence) and walk for about 15 minutes to K's house (which was the way the bus came so I had remembered correctly). 
• Over 2.5 hours after arriving at Radley we ring K's doorbell.  She opens with "I'm so happy to see you!  I take it you have received my messages then?"  We shake our heads and she tells us that she had to go to the A & E with her oldest, I, who fell off the bed and banged the back of her head on the bedside table.  They had just returned home and K had just heard my messages, as she wasn't able to pick up at the A & E. 
• Happy ending to the story in that we made it in end and I. wasn't seriously hurt, but what are the odds of our phones not working at that particular time?!  We didn't have any reception for the remainder of the day and I heard once back in Sweden that Telenor had had problems that day, especially with international roaming.  I'm so grateful for public libraries and the resources available there, as well as for friendly innkeepers letting you borrow their phones.

Story 3

• Wednesday AM and we're on our way to Heathrow on the tube when I get a text from British Airways that our flight has been cancelled.  We had seen on the morning news that there was icy frost and fog and that a lot of flights were cancelled or delayed but since our flight wasn't until 2 pm we thought it would be fine by then. 
• The text said to call a number or visit the website to get a refund or rebook onto another flight.  I try the number right away but of course it's impossible to get through, as thousands of stranded travellers are trying to ring at the same time.  I want to avoid the cost of international roaming so I forward the text to Peter back home in Sweden so he can go online for us.  When we get off at Hatton Cross to change for the right terminal train he calls and is about to rebook us on an early evening flight from City Airport, also with BA.  However, the system keeps on failing every time he tries to pay for it - probably because hundreds of other people are trying to book the same flights - and eventually it's not a 2,000 SEK flight anymore but a 14,000 SEK one.  Peter gives up on that flight and tells me he will check other (non-BA) alternatives but that we should proceed to the ticker counter as soon as we get to the terminal.
• As you could imagine, once we get there the queues are super-long and they are handing out a piece of paper with the phone number (same one I had already tried) and the link to the website, and also saying that most people will be rebooked on flights the following day.  We position ourselves in the queue but after a while Peter calls and tells us he has found tickets for a SAS flight later that evening.  It will cost us 8,000 SEK and we know we're probably only getting 2,000 SEK back for the cancelled flight*, but we really want to get home the same day (especially since my mum has a meeting scheduled early the following morning and I have a cold and would prefer to get home to my own bed), so we take it.  Besides, even if BA would have rebooked us the next day they would probably not have paid for the hotel, as weather problems are considered force majeure.
• We get out of the queue and make our way from Terminal 5 (unfortunately, as the shopping there is so much better) to Terminal 3 to check in for our SAS flight.  The flight doesn't leave until 9 pm so we spend almost 8 hours sitting around waiting and reading, with a few pitstops for food or coffee and some taxfree shopping.  I'm very happy Isolde wasn't on this trip with us, as it would have been quite tiring to entertain her at the airport for all those hours (and also being "lost" in Abingdon for almost 3-hour a couple of days earlier).

So, as you can see, a bit of adventure on this trip to say the least, but all with happy endings I guess! :)

* We know now we're getting the 2,000 SEK back but I'm still in contact with BA regarding the difference, and soon probably with my insurance company.  Wish me luck!

Friday Gallery: Faith, Hope and Love

Making it easy for myself today as I'm busy packing for a Christmas shopping trip (and catch-up with friends) in London Saturday-Wednesday together with my mum.

Found this very timely ad for a new exhibition at the Maritime Museum. Not that I'm particularly fond of tattoos (rather the opposite), but could be an interesting exhibition.

By the way, Västmanländskan is Friday Gallery director for this month and has chosen today's and three other themes: Lucia, Christmas preparations (julstök) and Half-Year Check (photos from the last six months).

Swedish National Day

Lonely Planet has come out with a new Sweden guide.  I thought today, our National Day, was a good time to post an extract (via Swedish Wire).

Frozen wastelands, cosy cottages, virgin forest, reindeer herders and viking lore - Sweden has all this, and mad style too.

-- Swedish style

In some ways, visiting Sweden feels like walking right into a fashion or home-decor magazine. There are no boring outfits on the streets of Stockholm, and the care with which houses, cottages, cafes and public spaces are decorated and kept up throughout the country is truly inspiring.

But Swedish style is never too showy; form and function are tightly linked in this society known for valuing moderation, practicality, order, simple lines and clever designs.

-- Landscape

Truth be told, the best thing about Sweden is its natural beauty. But to really appreciate this country's charms, you have to leave the city behind. Whether that means sailing across an archipelago to visit an island or two or trekking along a kingly trail through the northern wilderness just depends on your preferences why not try both?

Hiking, camping, cycling, skiing, boating, fishing and foraging for mushrooms and berries are all major Swedish pastimes, and it's easy to get in on the action from just about any place in the country.

-- The Sami

The northern part of Sweden is home to the indigenous Sami people, whose traditionally nomadic lifestyle is built around reindeer herding. Sami culture, including handicraft, homes and villages, methods of transport and style of cooking, is one of the many things a visitor can become immersed in while spending time in Lappland.

Don't miss the chance to learn about this unique group of people: spend a night or two in a Sami reindeer camp or take a dog-sledding tour. If you're on a more limited schedule, have a meal in a Sami restaurant or pick up some hand-made Sami woodwork or leather goods to take home as souvenirs.

-- Vikings and history

Ancient rune stones poke up out of the grass in parks all over Sweden; huge stone ship settings and unobtrusive burial mounds are almost as common. Walled medieval cities and seaside fortresses are regular stops on the travellers' circuit. Viking ruins and the stories surrounding them are very much a part of the modern Swedish landscape, and it's easy to feel as if you're walking through history. In fact, you are.

-- Top experiences

- Stockholm

Stockholm's good looks and mad style could almost be intimidating. But this city is an accessible beauty, as easy to explore as it is rewarding.

Its layout, spread across 14 islands connected by 57 bridges, sounds complicated but it is compact and easily walkable. Each neighbourhood has a distinct character, yet they're close enough together that you can spend time in several of them on a day.

The old town, Gamla Stan, is one of Europe's most arresting historic hubs: a concoction of storybook buildings, imposing palaces and razor-thin cobblestone streets.

Meanwhile, just a few metres from this time capsule, the modern city centre shines like a fashion magazine come to life. Downtown is a catwalk, showroom and test kitchen all in one. Everything here is the very latest thing.

And it's all surrounded by pristine forests and an archipelago. What's not to love?

- Hiking

Particularly in the northern reaches, Sweden has some absolutely gorgeous hiking trails, most of which are well maintained and supplied with conveniently located mountain huts along the way.

The season is relatively short, but it's worth a bit of extra planning to get out into the wilderness. Good places to venture out to include Kungsleden and Padjelantaleden trails, Sarek National Park and Tyresta National Park, just southeast of Stockholm.

The best hiking time is between late June and mid-September, when trails are mostly snow-free.

After early August the mosquitoes have gone.

- Medieval cities

The port town of Visby is medieval eye candy and enough in itself to warrant a trip to Gotland. Inside its thick city walls await twisting cobbled streets, fairytale wooden cottages, evocative ruins and steep hills with impromptu Baltic views. The city wall, with its 40-plus towers and the spectacular church ruins within, attest to the town's former Hanseatic glories.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Visby swarms with holidaymakers in summer, and from mid-June to mid-August cars are banned in the old town. For many, the highlight of the season is the costumes, performances, crafts, markets and re-enactments of Medeltidsveckan (Medieval Week; medeltidsveckan.com), held during the first or second week of August. Finding accommodation during this time is almost impossible unless you've booked ahead.

- Local cuisine

Traditionally, basic Swedish cuisine is a humble, healthy enterprise based around fish, potatoes and preserved meat.

But in recent years the country's top chefs have pushed the boundaries so that alongside classic everyday dishes such as fried herring or meatballs, or even more exotic northern fare such as arctic char or reindeer with wild berries, you'll also find innovative, experimental dishes that are fiercely global in influence and ambition. Dining out in Sweden can be an experience on a par with some of the best food cities in Europe.

- Göteborg

The edgy alter ego to Stockholm's confident polish, Sweden's "second city" of Goteborg is a city of contrasts, with slick museums, raw industrial landscapes, pleasant parks, can-do designers and cutting-edge food.

Try shrimp and fish straight off the boat or at one of the city's five Michelin-rated restaurants. There's the thrill-packed chaos of Sweden's largest theme park, the cultured quiet of its many museums, and you can't leave without window-shopping in Haga and Linne

- Kingdom of Crystal

With its hypnotic glass-blowing workshops, the "Kingdom of Crystal" (glasriket.se) is Sweden's third-biggest drawcard after Stockholm and Goteborg. There are at least 11 glass factories, most with long histories: Kosta, for example, was founded in 1742.

The glassworks have similar opening hours, usually 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 4pm Saturday and noon to 4pm Sunday. Expert glass designers produce some extraordinary avant-garde pieces, often with a good dollop of Swedish wit involved.

Layover

Now we're on our way home after a great vacation (more about it and travelling with a baby later). When we arrived to Washington D.C. (Dulles) around 1pm after a short delay, we picked up our luggage and planned to check in on our 9pm flight to Stockholm and then leave the airport and meet fellow Swedish blogger Annika (Life in the Suburb). Great plan! If only Iceland Air had an open check-in or ticket desk... No lockers to be found either, and I doubt they would fit two suitcases, a pushchair transport bag and three carry-ons anyway. So instead we had to haul our stuff around until check-in opened at 5pm, which meant we mostly sat around waiting, had lunch, had some Starbucks...

Now we're finally checked in and inside the terminal and Isolde can let off some steam. Luckily it's a pretty new terminal or at least the carpets look quite clean, or clean enough (but why no play area for kids anywhere?!).

Fly Report

First morning in the States this time around. We stayed at a hotel last night but for the next few days we'll be staying with my old aupair family in Delaware. We figured it was better to stay at a hotel the first night instead of arriving after midnight. Now I'm very happy we decided to do that since our flight (to Dulles, Washington DC, via Iceland) was almost one hour late and immigration took a while (and the drive to Dover would have taken two hours).

Isolde did so well on the flight! She was her usual happy-go-lucky self and she slept at least four hours plus a couple of power naps. She even slept through some heavy turbulence that made me cry a little - did not want my little family to perish yet! We had a free seat in between us where she could either sleep or sit and play. So the adults could even enjoy the in-flight entertainment!

After the flight I was more worried about Isolde's jetlag, something I hadn't thought of beforehand, but I managed to get her to sleep better that I thought last night, even if I didn't sleep as much as I wanted, and we slept until 07:30 US time (and 13:30 Swe time). We'll see how the day goes. I think getting the meal routine going will be the trick to also get her to sleep when she should.

Family Friendly Flying

Pushchairs for loan at the airport. Things you don't know before you have kids and travel with kids. Now we don't have to use the BabyBjörn as much.

Last Day

Time to go home tomorrow. As always, mixed feelings, but in the end, home sweet home, or "borta bra men hemma bäst" (away is good but home is best), as we say in Sweden.

Today we took it very easy. Ventured out around noon, walked down to the port, past the war monument.












Before strolling a last time on the Promenade and through the old town we had moules (of course) at one of the restaurants in the harbour. Isolde was a bit cranky though but luckily we were seated outside where baby cries get muffled in all the other noise.




On our way home we stocked up on olive oil and tried the local specialty socca, a chickpea pancake.

And, today was Peter's birthday but in the midst of all the Christening preparations and other stuff over the last couple of weeks I forgot to buy him a gift! Despite us talking about his birthday several times! Maybe "pregnancy/nursing brain" does exist?! Lucky me he took it well!

Via Anna's iPhone

Maeght

Another two days have passed in Nice (and elsewhere of course :) Yesterday we took another car-free day. The plan was to go shopping, which we did but we didn't find anything. Nice doesn't really have any fun shops in my opinion, unless you can afford the Louis Vuitton streak or want to stock up on Provencian fabric (which I don't find that pretty) or herbs. But I don't mind just strolling the streets, looking at architecture or people. In the evening I took a bath with Isolde for the first time (we don't have a tub at home but in our new flat we will!), which we both enjoyed. After that the whole family chilled on the sofa where Isolde has occupied one corner.

Today we made a short journey to another pretty mountain village, St-Paul-de-Vence, where we also visited the modern art museum Fondation Maeght. It's considered one of the world's finest art museums but since I'm not too fond of modern art and it's a small museum, I thought it wasn't worth 14 euros. On the other hand it's a cool building and it's amazing that two art dealers collected so much to open a museum (or gallery). And it's famous artists of course; Chagall, Miró, Giacometti et al. It's a cool building as well. So it's nice to have seen it. To tick it on the check list.

For Isolde it was her first visit to an art museum. She found the milk bottle display of course (her parents did not stage the photo at all, no...).

Via Anna's iPhone

Gorges du Verdon

I was manouvred out of bed this morning (at 9:30 so a completely decent hour though) as you can see. Isolde's is supposed to sleep in the so-called snuggle nest in the middle... She did sleep in her other bed (the pram for this week) from 9pm to almost 5am so I'm not complaining though!
After all the morning chores we got on the road around 11:30 to go to Gorges du Verdon, France's Grand Canyon. On our way we saw many villages on hillsides and hilltops and looked out over the astonishing gorges (no pictures with the iPhone though) and the gorgeously blue Lac de Ste-Croix.

We had lunch at the entrance to the gorge, Castellane, and afternoon coffee at the other end, in Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
I highly recommend a visit to Gorges du Verdon if you're in the area! Such amazing landscape and views and beautiful villages built in/into the mountains. Not for the faint-hearted or those suffering from vertigo though! Via Anna's iPhone