Turkish Delight

When I visited Turkey this summer I promised to blog about it but then didn't actually get around to doing so. But now, with the EU, after delays and late-night mangling, finally having agreed to start membership negotiations with Turkey, it a good time as any.

I visited the town of Marmaris in the southwest of Turkey with a friend for about a week. Marmaris is located in a bay of the Mediterranean with a beautiful marina, below the green, majestic Taurus mountains. Taurus actually continues all the way through Asia and turns into Himalaya. Sultan Süleyman the Great had a fortress built in the 1500s and founded the city. Legend has it that when the Sultan returned home in one of his ships and saw the finished fortress, he shouted "Mimar as!", which means "Hang the architect!". Hence the name Marmaris today.

We spent a lot of time at the beach (it being the main reason for the trip) but with the temperature approaching 40 Celcius degrees, it was nice, and also the plan, to set aside some time for sightseeing outside town. Except for the obligatory Hamam, we took a day-tour to Dalyan and Kaunos, which included a river boat ride passed ancient royal graves carved in a mountain side, a mudbath at an ancient spa location, and a swim at a beach where the Caretta turtle lays her eggs. Another excursion brought us to Pamukkale, with its magnificent white limestone basins, making it one of the natural wonders of the world. On the way to Pamukkale we made a very interesting visit to a rug factory - had I known I would have taken my savings and bought one of the amazing silk rugs!

On the way to these sights we passed through a number of different towns and villages. I must say that I was surprised in both positive and negative ways. I knew Turkey was a very varied country, with Istanbul and other cities quite developed while the majority of the country is mainly rural and undeveloped; however, I wasn't prepared that Marmaris and other cities would feel so much like (especially southern and Eastern) European cities, while travelling through the countryside felt like going back in time to a 1950's Sweden. To take an example: People of all ages were working in the field in very old-fashioned clothes with tools seemingly from the pre-industrial area!

So Turkey has a long way to come but the best road to take is the European highway, even if it has to keep by a speed limit of 5 km an hour and sometimes do a U-turn and make a fresh start. On the way it has a lot of important passengers to pick up: democracy, human rights, a new account of its history, the role of the military, economic development, etc. Luckily it has extra drivers, some a bit reluctant but most of them forthcoming.